Once thought to be dying, the traditional suit is making a surprising return in politics, spearheaded by NYC Mayor Zohran Mamdani. This article explores how his sartorial choices signal authority, relatability, and identity, challenging the suit's historical perceptions and navigating complex cultural codes.
The article delves into the unexpected resurgence of the suit, particularly in political spheres, using New York City Mayor Zohran Mamdani as a central example. Historically seen as a symbol of seriousness and power, the suit had largely faded from daily life for younger generations. However, Mamdani, a millennial politician, consistently wears modern, loosely tailored suits, sparking a conversation about their contemporary relevance. Men's fashion writer Derek Guy notes the suit's decline since WWII, now primarily reserved for formal events or as a political tool to convey authority and trust, even calling it a 'subtle form of drag' that performs masculinity. The piece highlights how suit silhouettes cycle, making them a significant but potentially fleeting investment. Mamdani's choice of mid-market Suitsupply is presented as a strategic move, aligning him with his middle-class, millennial demographic and progressive policies, contrasting sharply with the luxury suits favored by figures like Donald Trump. The article traces the suit's storied history in politics, from Obama's tan suit to Jeremy Corbyn's sartorial struggles. Economic historian Dr. Matthew Sterling Benson-Strohmayer describes Mamdani's approach as a 'performance of banality' and 'respectability politics,' a studied modesty designed to appeal broadly. He also points out the suit's military and colonial legacy, and its function as 'protective armour' for people of color in 'white spaces,' signaling legitimacy. This 'code-switching' is not new, seen in figures like Gandhi and Zelenskyy. Author David Kuchta emphasizes Mamdani's tightrope walk: conforming to leadership expectations while staying true to his non-mainstream roots, and navigating double standards faced by women and ethnic minorities in suits. Ultimately, Mamdani's sartorial choices underscore the visible tension between insider and outsider, and the non-neutrality of appearance in politics.
